John Coast – Recruit To Indonesia’s Revolution

Recruit To Revolution
Adventure and Politics during the Indonesian Struggle for Independence
John Coast (Edited by Laura Noszlopy)
Revised and updated edition published by NIAS Press 2015.
(First published by Christophers, London, 1952)
ISBN: 978-87-7694-164-2

John Coast was 31 when he flew to Bukittinggi in 1948. His life’s journey until that point had been one of youthful idealism when he had flirted with fascism while a clerk with Rothchild’s Bank. Following the outbreak of the war against Hitler’s Germany, he enlisted in the Coldstream Guards who were sent to Singapore at the beginning of February 1942. Two weeks later he was captured by the Japanese invaders, and then spent the next three and a half years as a prisoner of war (PoW) working on the Japanese ‘death railway’ in Siam, as Thailand was then known.

After the railway was completed, alongside Dutch, Eurasian and Indonesian PoWs Coast  found himself in a camp with time on his hands. The “malaria-yellowed” minority were still fit enough to seek ‘entertainment’; Coast ‘studied’ Dutch and Indonesian and came to appreciate Balinese dancing so much that he planned a post-war project.

I wanted to take a really perfect Indonesian dancing company around the world to convince all those who saw them that the culture of Indonesia was a thing of excellence.”

The Dutch PoWs were certain that they would return to the Dutch East Indies to resume their paternalistic roles once they had been released. So they viewed Coast with suspicion, noting his developing anti-colonialist sympathies and his stated support for the nascent republican movement he was learning about from the Indonesians who had never had a country of their own.

The Indonesians claimed an international treaty, the Atlantic Charter, as the legal basis for their independence. This was a policy statement drafted by the leaders of the UK and the USA and issued on 14 August 1941, which defined the Allied goals for the post-war world. The key goals for Indonesians were: no territorial changes made against the wishes of the people, self-determination; restoration of self-government to those deprived of it; and disarmament of aggressor nations. The Atlantic Charter, with its signatories, lead to the United Nations which began with a conference in April 1945.

On September 7th 1944, Japanese Prime Minister Koiso had promised independence for Indonesia. On August 15th 1945. the Emperor Hirohito surrendered his forces and two days later, under pressure from radical and pemuda (youth) groups, Soekarno and Hatta proclaimed independence. Little of this would have been known to the POWs until their release in August and September 1946 when, according to Coast, the British PoWs heard “with a mixture of amusement and sympathy, that the new Indonesian republican government was forbidding the return of our Dutch co-prisoners to the Indies where they said they had been so respected and popular.”

It was not until December 27th 1949 that the Dutch Queen Juliana signed the document transferring sovereignty to the United States of Indonesia. This followed the Dutch–Indonesian Round Table Conference which was held in The Hague from 23rd August – 2nd November 1949.  John Coast was to find himself playing an integral part in the lead up to the Conference, and that period forms the core of his memoir.

How he got there was a matter of happenstance. As can easily be imagined, the returning PoWs “were not in tune with the delightful, but rather grey, London of the winter of 1945. … So we ex-prisoners of the Far East found ourselves continually gathering together and talking about the years behind us.”

For Coast, that meant seeking out “the classical European ballet because of my prison-camp interest aroused by the classical dances of Indonesia.” Following a performance of the Sleeping Beauty, he determined to bring a Javanese dancing company to London “to show something of their exotic quality to this surprisingly dance-minded public.”

Needing to practice his Indonesian, in November he sought out some Indonesians. The key figure was Dr. Zairin Zain, who was to become Indonesia’s Ambassador to the United States in April 1961, when John Kennedy was in the White House. In 1945, he was an advisor to the Dutch delegation to the United Nations, then in London, and was able to give Coast an update on the situation.  For example, as the Dutch had occupied Batavia, Sukarno and Hatta were transferring to Jogja.

Zain also gave Coast an introduction to Dorothy Woodman, a “renowned figure in Left Wing politics“, Orientalist, and secretary of the Union of Democratic Control. Busy as she was with rallies against Franco, the fascist dictator of Spain, and “incessantly writing articles and pamphlets, she yet had time to be the supreme friend and contact-maker of all the young countries of South-East Asia.” These contacts included writers for the left-wing magazine New Statesman and members of parliament in the socialist government of Clement Attlee.

Zain first asked Coast to translate a pamphlet, Perduangan Kita (Our Struggle), written by Sjahrir who was about to become Indonesia’s Prime Minister, for the meeting of UN delegates in London. And so began Coast’s journey towards his image “of this brilliantly coloured, brown-limbed, youthful and hot-bloodied land.”

His first step was to join the Foreign Office with the intention of becoming a press attaché in the Far East, and on 16th September 1946 he started “behind the desk of the Indonesian Information Service” with a hoped for posting of a few months in Jogja, the seat of Indonesia’s first government. But first came a posting to Thailand, where he became “a typical bachelor around town” and very knowledgeable about the “sorority of birds of the night“.

And it is here in his narrative that a welter of information begins which may well boggle readers, yet is of historic importance. Coast’s personal role as emissary and intermediary is the glue binding it together and one can glide through the pages, with the umpteen names tied in with enough “compromises, plots and counterplots, rumours and lies” to boggle all but academics. That there are an additional thirty one pages of appendices, a bibliography and index adds to the significance of this book, and much is owed to the editor Laura Noszlopy.

For this reviewer, a non-academic, what stands out are the descriptions of the places and people rather than the processes. His still relevant insights and ruminations resonate.

Chapter 14, ‘These Indonesians’, closes with this: There can be no doubt at all that all colonizers treat their subjects consistently as inferiors, but the root of the trouble possibly is that those colonized do actually feel themselves to be inferior because they have been unable to stop themselves from being subdued.

Has there been a radical change of national mindset in the 64 years since those words were published? Many of us hoped that Jokowi’s pre-election mantra about changing the nation’s mindset meant freeing creative thinking, but we didn’t realise that ‘nationalism’ and ‘character building’ were what he wanted to perpetuate.
This book is only available for online purchase via Amazon where you’ll also find his account of his time as a PoW, Railroad of Death, a bestseller in 1946. There is a Periplus edition of Dancing Out of Bali, his account of his success in taking a troupe of Balinese dancers and musicians to Europe.
First published in Indonesia Expat magazine.


Jalan Jalan – A Novel of Indonesia
Mike Stoner
Tuttle Publishing 2016
ISBN 978-0-8048-4629-5

The dozen or so books about Indonesia that I’ve reviewed have been undertaken with a fairly serious approach. There’s a notebook and pen beside me as I read so that I can jot down quotes which I’ll possibly embed somewhere in my prose, so I’ll have an outlined framework ready as I reach the last page.

But not Mike Stoner’s first novel: I romped through it in no more than a couple of sittings.  But that was because for me, and I suspect many readers of this review, there is a familiarity, a recognition that we both accepted happenstance – a job offer based on a five minute interview ‘back home’.

An added connection for this reviewer, as well as other contributors here, is that ‘Newbie’ and I came here to teach English in a language school. He landed, jet lagged, in Medan at the dawn of the new millennium, just two years after the anarchic chaos preceding Suhartos’ abdication in May ’98.

When it’s the time to enter the next phase of one’s life because an escape clause from the past may be needed, the culture shock of a ‘wonderland’ can oddly aid personal readjustments. Learning an unknown language  and that knives aren’t part of the dinner table place settings, coping with different weather conditions and that if you’re able to adapt, then you can learn to survive.

Newbie’s past as ‘Old Me’ is heart-wrenching: the death of his true love Laura. She is a ‘ghost’, a voice in his head who won’t leave him as he relives their intense relationship from their first meeting in a seaside tea shop where he was working, through scenes which range from raunchy to reflective. He has an ongoing conversation with her even until the end of the book 285 pages later when Newbie believes he has become ‘New Me’.

Or has he?

When Newbie isn’t having a conversation with his inner voice, he describes his life outside: the Old and the New are inseparable.

It is this consistent autobiographic voice which keeps readers engaged. Incidents and descriptions are of the time, although with clove cigarettes apparently at Rp.300 a pack it did cross my mind that Stoner had got the decades mixed up: a dozen years earlier my Commodore were a cheap Rp.500 a pack.

I walk down the street, the busy, hot, stinking street where dust sticks to me and everyone watches me. Watches the foreigner. The strange man who is so big and awkward. Out of place like an elephant in a field of sheep.”

His colleagues in the Medan’s language schools are familiar, especially Kim, forever effing and blinding  (Hi, Carl), aloof Naomi, and the “hippy chick” Julie. With the week’s classes finished, their Friday nights in Mei’s place downing umpteen large bottles of Bintang remind me of the glory days of Jakarta’s Blok M. There are also weekend jaunts together out of town: to Bukit Lawang, the tourist town famous for its orangutan sanctuary (before the flash flood which wiped it out in 2003), and Prapat beside Lake Toba. (For Jakartans read Pelabuhan Ratu, Carita or Puncak.)

All that, though, is the everyday reality masking the hallucinatory conversation with Laura, not that the ‘magic’ mushrooms, ecstasy and marijuana from Aceh marketed by both sides in the ‘civil war’ then under way further north had no influence.

Inevitably it seems, as a single white guy, he attracts a girlfriend, Eka, who is not so much an on-the-rebound foil as a practical, no nonsense source of succour, something of a nurse.

“What is she to me? It’s not love, I know that. She is a sounding board, someone to tell my pathetic woes to. Someone who is mine and not connected to anything else. She is my release and my fantasy. She is my sanity too.

“I should go to work,” I say.
Yes, go to work and think of Eka, not dead girl.”

The “dead girl” Laura takes an active part in Newbie’s everyday life, offering a commentary, advice and criticism in equal doses. The manner of her passing isn’t disclosed for some time; then its sheer mundane wastefulness adds to the sense of tragedy and his bewilderment of a life, their life together, lost. Empathetic readers will ponder the fragility of our own lives.

I’ve had to watch you with this girl. Use her for your own selfish needs. Well, I feel responsible. If it wasn’t for me, she wouldn’t be falling for my Ice-Cream Boy. Because of me she’s going to feel heartbroken and abused by you. I’m trying to be your conscience.

You lost that right when you died.
I didn’t ask for it.
I know. I’m sorry. But I didn’t ask for what you left me.

Such is the rare integrity and intensity in the narrative as the ‘Old Me’ gradually becomes the sought for ‘New Me’ that I suspect readers will have one question to ask Mike Stoner: how much of this account of coming to terms with a bereavement is ‘factual’?

I’ve asked it for you, and he told me that his reason for coming here wasn’t exactly the same as Newbie’s.

That part was based on an unhappy event in an earlier life. However I had been through the mill a bit with relationships and stress prior to Indonesia, and really felt I had to get away to somewhere completely different. And being in a place where I knew no-one and no-one knew me, certainly allowed me to go a little wilder than I would have done before. I wasn’t the usual ‘Mike’ there for sure. There was some subconscious re-invention and certainly a fair amount of not caring about what people thought, but I’m well and truly ‘Old Me’ at the moment.

Not sure that’s a good thing but hey ho.”

Yes it is, Mike, you’ve written an impressive story and I for one look forward to reviewing your next one.
First published in the Indonesia Expat magazine.

A Brief History of Indonesia

A Brief History of Indonesia
Tim Hannigan
pub. Tuttle 2015
ISBN 978-0-8048-4476-5 (pbk)
ISBN 978-0-4629-1716-7(ebook)

[The sub-title is far from brief: Sultans, Spices and Tsunamis – The Incredible Story of Southeast Asia’s Largest Nation.]

When Tim Hannigan first arrived in Indonesia “as an earnest young backpacker with a passion for history“, he was unable to find anything with a general overview; just academic tomes and guides to tourist ‘obyeks’ of interest. These guides, phrase books and beautiful coffee table books portraying landscapes, flora and fauna, and meals, are still the main stock of non-fiction reading to be found on the shelves of book stores situated in malls and airport departure lounges.

But now Periplus stocks two paperback volumes of narrative history, both by Tim: Raffles and the British Invasion of Java, previously reviewed in Indonesian (né Jakarta) Expat, and now this one, the result of far less intensive scholarship, albeit with an extensive bibliography and index.

This book is less concerned with dates than with context. In our inter-connected and interdependent world, the importance of what is now known as the Indonesian archipelago in the shaping of the world geopolitical map we know today is barely recognised by Indonesians themselves, let alone visitors.

The archipelago was formed as Asian and Australian land masses separated, so its early history, was determined by geology and is unwritten except by archaeologists. Climate changes lead to migrations of early hominids; a great Ice Age had lowered sea levels, and what is now a nation was land-linked to Asia and sea journeys were shorter. The Java Man dates back some million years, and the recently discovered in Flores metre high Homo florensiensis proved that sea journeys were made at least 100,000 years ago.

The ‘Hobbits’ were followed much later by the Melanesians, who still predominate in the easternmost regions of the archipelago. Then some seven thousand years ago the Austronesians, “the greatest tribe of maritime travellers the world has ever known“, set forth from “the damp interior of southern China.” It took a further two and a half millennia for them to reach Sulawesi, and that’s when Indonesia’s history began: c.2500BC.

There are no barriers to trade along the coastlines between the Red Sea and Africa in the westerly direction and to Japan and China in the other. The seasonal monsoon winds provided easy sailing through the Malaka Strait. During the equatorial dry season (summer), the winds carried ships with their cargoes to the north-west and to the north-east during the wet season (winter).

Lying midway along the trade route there was the incentive for traders to settle. Here it must be noted that until 1867 when the Straits Settlements on the Malay Peninsula were declared a British crown colony, their affairs were intertwined with those of south Sumatra and west Java in terms of trading and piracy.

The volcanic activity and tropical climate provided the fertility suitable for agricultural settlements, particularly in Java. As well as goods to sell or barter, traders brought their religions – Hinduism and Buddhism, and later Islam – and languages. These traders also sought the riches found here: tin from Palembang in south Sumatra which also provided pepper, and the spices, nutmeg and cloves, from the far Moluccas,

Before then, there were ”Empires of Imagination”: Here and there some pretender prince, with ideas too big for the traditional role of village chief, might have seized control of a federation of hamlets or a growing port. Once he had done so he would have found himself in need of a political concept to bolster his new position as head of a proto-state. The Indian idea of kingship was perfect for the task.

Situated at the junction of the sea lanes in south Sumatra, from the 7th to 12th centuries the Buddhist trading ‘empire’ of Srivijaya (aka Sriwijaya) was able to dominate the surrounding states, including those across the Straits of Malaka. By the time its influence had waned some six centuries later, kingdoms in Java had had already sought permanence through the construction of stone temples, such as the earliest on the Dieng plateau which were built by Shiva worshippers.

The Sailendra Dynasty in central Java, a trading rather than a maritime kingdom, possibly had ties with Srivijaya because of the religious connection, Mahayana Buddhism, as portrayed in their monument Borobodur built during the 8th and 9th centuries. They were supplanted by the Sanyaya dynasty who took Shiva, the Hindu god as their key deity and erected Prambanan Temple and lots of smaller temples in the surrounding countryside.

In East Java, at the end of the 13th century, the Mongols, who were then ruling China, sent a number of fleets to extract tribute from the traders. In 1293, the final one was repelled by Raden Wijaya, who had invited them in the first place  He then “went back to his little village … and turned it into an empire called Majapahit. … Later Javanese kings, nineteenth century European orientalists and strident Indonesian nationalists have all retooled its reputation to fit their own prejudices and purposes.”

The introduction of Islam is less well documented. By the early thirteenth century there would almost certainly have been Muslim communities living in ports around the Straits of Malaka. Hannigan suggests that the creeping conversion could well have been a matter of “kingly pragmatism”, the need to work with the increasing number Muslim traders passing though or settled with local wives, the first converts.

It is in relatively recent times, the past 400 hundred plus years, that European powers, the Dutch, English, Portuguese, Spanish and French – named the “Spice Invaders” by Hannigan – came in search of the source and tried with varying success to monopolise the trade. However, events ‘back home’ were to lead to what is now an independent Indonesia

The storming of the Bastille in 1789 and the start of the French Revolution lead in political and economic terms to what has been termed ‘Age of Enlightenment’.

Out of this came the idea of European intellectual and moral superiority and the spurious moral imperative – the idea that “we know what’s best for them” and the contemptuous notions of the ‘ignorant native’ and the ‘Asiatic despot’.

One may surmise that the ‘inferiority complex’ engendered remains in the national psyche, and is the fundamental reason for the current rise in nationalism.

Sukarno once said: “Never forget your history.”

To which I would add “especially that not written by the winners.” At the book launch in Jakarta I suggested that this ‘Brief History’ should be translated into Indonesian as an all-purpose supplement to the bleak and shallow versions of national history ‘approved’ by successive governments.
Note: Tim Hannigan’s Raffles book has recently been translated into Indonesian and is available in Gramedia.
First published in the Indonesian Expat magazine, Issue 153.

Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues

Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues
Jeremy Allen
pub. YellowDot 2009
ISBN 978-979-18946-3-0

Living through interesting times and recording them as an observer, albeit with a strong attachment, offers a value not only for future historians, but also for those of us on the periphery.

Canadian Jeremy Allen straddles the worlds of expats and Indonesians alike. He first came to Indonesia as an “innocent” backpacker in 1980 and “became enthralled by Indonesia’s natural wonders, its vibrant culture, and by the way [he] was received with warm hospitality.”

He is an innocent no longer, and nor are any of us in Indonesia who’ve witnessed first hand the natural and manmade disasters, the social unrest, the blatant corruption, and the disregard for legal processes – often by the judiciary and law enforcement agencies. All this, and more, is covered by the local and international mass media, NGOs and personal social media.

‘Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues’ is a reprint of two books. The first, originally published in 2001, has as its core the events which lead to the forced abdication of the “dictator in all but name” Suharto in May ’98.

Other accounts have been published about the Asian Economic Crisis (krismon) which lead to resign, but, as Jeremy points out, “all economic circumstances are relative”. For him, “the quadrupling of the price of imported cheese was a minor inconvenience.” However, “for a middle-class mother, the four-fold in baby formula was a serious concern.” As businesses and banks collapsed, one solution was for selebritis to establish upscale warung makanan which came to be known as kafe tenda (tented café). At one such, Jeremy learnt from a former banker at a Soeharto-owned bank that “he believes that there is nothing wrong with nepotism as long as you keep it in the family“.

Although his income at the time was derived mainly from copy writing, his keen ear and empathy marks Jeremy out as a “proper journalist“. He was curious and concerned as he ventured out on the streets in that tumultuous week, often in the company of Monica, a traumatised Chinese-Indonesian student from Trisakti University, the scene of still unresolved shootings, who hid her tension behind the lens of her camera.

She was to develop into a filmmaker, documenting the aftermath of the mass rapes of Chinese women, and the students’ continued push for reformasi, the “desire to see an end to Soeharto’s rule with no clear concept of how to replace the existing authoritarian government with a more democratic political system“. (Many would say that nearly 20 years later that in spite of direct elections there are still few with a clear concept.)

The students divided into two groupings, militant activists and those demanding a more peaceful route, both facing the “incompetently commanded troops“. And then came Ramadhan, the Islamic fasting month and all sides called a cessation, probably because “the prospect of hours in the tropical afternoon sun without a drop of water would be a rigorous test of both political zeal and military discipline.”

Among the ‘characters’ Jeremy met was Pak Trisno, who became a journalist “fired with humanitarian fervor … documenting the plight of the common people as a half-made, fractious republic lurched from one crisis to another.”

In 1965 he was arrested, accused of subversion, but never tried, and spent the years until 1974 being “shuffled from one prison to another in Jakarta.” Upon release he was helped by friends to establish a used furniture-antiques business in South Jakarta, close to expat enclaves. And they lead Jeremy to an ‘expose’ of the duality in the then expat scene in Jakarta. There were many insensitive DIAs (“dollar income a**holes“) who thought life was “dirt cheap“, and they are contrasted with the majority of Indonesians for whom “life was no party“.

Bali Blues, the second book has as its focus the Bali bombings on October 11th 2002. Jeremy had hoped to be in Bali that day to meet some friends, but fortuitously had a business meeting in Jakarta, while an allergic reaction kept his friends out of both the Sari Club and Paddy’s Bar.

He “hastened there and discovered that [his] friends’ fortuitous escape had not been an isolated occurrence. A few remembered feeling a force at their back, like someone physically pushing them out of harm’s way.”

And so begins a personal account about the balance between the metaphysical and physical planes of existence at the centre of Bali life, and the changes wrought to the land- and mind- scapes with the advent of mass tourism, as well as the seekers of a residential paradise with little understanding of the exotic norms.

Underlying and beyond the urbanisation, the traffic jams, the real estate vendors, new age dreamers, surfers, and the Javanese economic migrants (including “professional prostitutes”), lies a “shadowy parallel world, called Niskala, and the physical world, Sekala. These are kept in balance through the endless cycles of prayer, ritual and public ceremony. The catastrophic Bali Bomb disrupted this harmony, threatening the well-being of Bali, but of the world.”

Much of the book are character studies of Jeremy’s social circle, so it comes as something as a shock to find chronological accounts of the fateful evening with laughing terrorist Amrozi and his cohorts intertwined with those of Jeremy’s Indonesian friends.

The book closes with an epilogue. A week after the executions of the three bombers, Jeremy undertook a cycle ride from Bali back to Jakarta. En route he took a detour past by the burial site of the two brothers, Amrozi bin Nurhasyim and Ali Ghufron. They had been buried in a “plot of carefully cleared land shaded by mango trees, with a chain-link fence enclosing the side-by-side graves.”

The fence had been erected because so many faithful pilgrims made midnight visits and took away the “mystically charged earth.”*
So much of contemporary history is reduced to message bytes and sound bites that having a personal, occasionally anecdotal, yet essentially objective account of seminal events such as this omnibus edition is of immense value.

There is a strong humanity shining through Jeremy Allen’s prose; I recommend it for that and to all those seeking a good armchair read.

Look for it in your local Periplus book store.
*Note: the gravesite of Imam Samudra, the other executed bomber, has also become a place of pilgimage.
First published in the Indonesia Expat magazine 19.9.15

Indonesia Etc.

Indonesia Etc: Exploring the Improbable Nation
Elizabeth Pisani
Published June 2014
– in the UK by Granta / in the US by WW Norton
– in Indonesia by Godown, an imprint of Lontar.

I dumped my bags in a dispiriting hotel room, asked the staff to clear out the dead cockroaches and headed out to explore.

And explore Indonesia with a very keen eye and widening mind is what Elizabeth Pisani (EP) did for just over a year in 2011/12. She was first posted here by Reuters in 1988, having backpacked the banana pancake circuit of north Sumatra, Java and Bali in 1983. She left Indonesia in 1991 “following several differences of opinion with the military about the accuracy of [her] reporting, particularly around the unfolding civil war in the north-western province of Aceh.”

Ten years later she returned with a PhD and spent four years as an epidemiologist, specializing in HIV and helping the Ministry of Health “track the speed of an epidemic it would prefer to ignore.” Her experiences here and in other countries lead to her book The Wisdom of Whores.

For her return, in choosing what to explore in such a vast country she opted for “the principle of random selection” figuring that by simply trusting that if she “got out there and looked through the eyes of enough people in enough places, [she’d] be able to piece the fragments together into a portrait of the nation as a whole, to understand better the threads that tie the glorious disparity together.”

That meant that she explored places and cultures outside the dominant Java and the usual haunts of tourists and most travellers. Starting out as “a hard drinking occasional smoker”, she “settled into the rhythm of life in extraordinary places” and discovered an Indonesia “quite different from the one [she] thought [she] knew.”

Villages and small towns in Sumba, Flores, the islands of the Moluccas from Kei up to Ternate, Aceh, West Kalimantan, Lombok, and the cities of Semarang, Surabaya and Solo were places which she visited, some revisited, generally staying in homes as an invited guest, often following a chance encounter, That way “you get to hear and see more than in, say, a coffee shop where you get the braggart’s view, and it is that view, expressed in public, that most often makes it into history.”

Some of these places I recognise from my own visits: Banda, Ambon and Ternate in the Moluccas, and Semarang’s Kota Tua in particular. In so doing, not only do I find myself smiling and nodding with recognition, as in my opening quote, but actually learning about and understanding aspects of Indonesia which faintly glimmered in my consciousness, but now that she’s brought them into my focus seem so obvious.

EP offers the historical context in broad strokes. For example, the fundamental foundation of Indonesia is Bhinneka Tunggal Ika (Unity in Diversity), and that is based on the historical role of the aptly named trade winds.

They blew south from China between December and March, and provided a fast passage up to India from June to September. In the interim months, the islands sat in the fickle-winded Doldrums. During these months, traders sat in the bustling ports that grew up to meet their needs. They married local girls in each port and left them to source cargo for their next visit.”

Then, with detailed descriptions, she points out that visitors to today’s markets “will probably find much the same sights and smells as Marco Polo did seven centuries ago.

Many of the cultures she meets are still very much rooted in adat, the traditions carried down through the generations, yet “villagers film a ritual sacrifice on their mobile phones [which] presents the nation’s leaders with a headache. If ancient and modern Indonesia co-exist, which should they make laws for?

She observes the clan system and suggests that what many call ‘corruption’ may be best described as ‘patronage’. Certain ‘positions’ are ‘reserved’ for members of the clan, and the exchange of items of ‘homage’ – from pigs to buffaloes at weddings and funerals in rural areas, to cash in cities and govt. centres – are traditionally a symbol of respect for the positions in a hierarchy.

In bureaucracies, that translates as the excuse that “belum dapat petunjuk” – ‘I haven’t received instructions yet’ and Asal Bapak Senang (ABS) – ‘as long as father is happy’.

However, she offers no excuses for the often blatant grabbing of local funds for self-promotion. “The central dilemma of modernisation (read ‘decentralisation’) in collective societies [is that] the all-encompassing security of a shared culture gets sold off in exchange for individual fulfilment.

Within the political sphere, following reformasi and the dismantling of Suharto’s centralised Orde Baru, there is now “so much democracy around that almost everyone has someone somewhere in the system delivering for them.” So “the disconnect between what comes out of the central government ministries in Jakarta and what goes on in the districts is growing more pronounced.”

Amid the serious, almost philosophical, ruminations, lie small gems observed with a sardonic eye for the seemingly mundane. For instance, she is absolutely spot on with her description of the ubiquitous Padang restaurants and points out that “while not all of the food is appetizing, there will always be something you like.”

I romped through the book, revelling in the details sourced from her observations (because she was “always scribbling in notebooks”). In nigh on 400 pages, plus a glossary, occasional footnotes, suggestions for further reading, and a valuable index, EP has written an always fascinating travelogue.

Very few of us have done more than scratch the surface of the etceteras beyond our immediate surroundings, and Indonesian Etc, is surely the richest account of contemporary Indonesia yet to be published. It is a nation quite different from the one we think we know.
Elizabeth Pisani’s blog.

Some excerpts and drafts of the book are online.
Inside Indonesia
Prospect Magazine
– Sample Chapter 3, an ‘enhanced version’ for e-book
First published in the Indonesia Expat magazine 18.6.14

Welcome to Smisland

Welcome to Smisland
Mathieu Sechet (aka Nyoman Seseh)
(with Keira O’Connor)
pub. Bali Buku 2013

After 10 years working in advertising, Mathieu Sechet enrolled in a French pastry school. Having made frequent visits to Bali from 2005, he says that after graduation three years ago he could then settle here.

As many do, he took up surfing – “but I’m not so good at all actually” – and, as few do, launched a marmalade brand.

“This was a great chance to do everything from the visual identity to the final product, including the recipes. And so I finally came back to my first love, graphic design, and a year and a half ago I decided to write Welcome to Smisland.”

“Write” is perhaps not the appropriate word because Smisland is a book unlike any other you’ll have come across. Mathieu says that he “tried to create an alternative to traditional books which could appeal to both tourists and expatriates, as a souvenir, a coffee table book, and an original ‘welcome gift’ for hotels as well.”

And that’s what it is: a hardback book with a mixture of photogenic scenery, ceremonies and people smiling “because that’s what most Balinese do” printed on high quality glossy paper.

Where Smisland particularly resonates with this reviewer is in the ‘cartoons’, particularly in the series on reflexology which is graphic art. Having once undergone a session at my wife’s urging, the reflexologist told me that I had problems with my kidneys and should drink more. I asked him if beer was ok and thankfully he replied in the affirmative.

And this picture is a reminder why I prefer to drink jamu.

In attempting to pin down the book’s attractions I had to resort to a thesaurus. Words such as quirky and wacky first sprang to mind, but they don’t exactly capture the book’s essence. Then I remembered that every expat in Indonesia experiences moments on a daily basis that make one pause, blink and mutter, which although occasionally frustrating, baffling even, later become amusing anecdotes.

There is a need to put those experiences into our own cultural framework before we can bridge the gap to understanding and semi-acculturalisation. Are the Balinese really amused when they see the westernised ‘new age’ enterprises in Ubud, the pub crawls in Ubud and Legian, and the artificiality of Nusa Dua which appears to be paved with astro turf? Or are those smiles a mask, the Balinese performing in their personal topeng dance?

Mathieu says that “underneath all the humour, and because I love Bali, the book is a bit more serious than at first meets the eye. I can say that’s a “buku campuran” with 50% photographs, 50% graphic design, and a lot of smiling with a pinch of thinking.”

He hopes to produce ‘Welcome to Smisland 2’ perhaps in two years, with a focus on other subjects such as legong, babi guling, etc.

I look forward to that, with the hope that his eye remains unjaundiced and his mind irreverent.
Sadly from my breakfast point of view, Mathieu has stopped making marmalade.

First published in the Bali Expat magazine 15.1.14

Crazy Little Heaven

Crazy Little Heaven: An Indonesian Journey
Mark Heyward
Pub. Transit Lounge Publishing 2013
ISBN: 978-1-921924-507
272pp plus 8pp photo insert

One’s destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things.
– Henry Miller

My book shelf has a number of tales written by travellers through Indonesia: from Geoffrey Gorer in the mid ’30’s (Bali and Angkor), to Norman Lewis (An Empire of the East – 1995), Redmond O’Hanlon (Into the Heart of Borneo – 1983), and George Monbiot’s (Poisoned Arrows – 1989).

However, these were written by folk who came, observed, and then departed for pastures new, and not by someone who is the patriarch of an Indonesian family and has clocked up nigh on two decades here.

With his fellow Tasmanian wife and their two young children, Mark Heyward arrived in East Kalimantan in 1992 to teach at an international school for the children of expatriate miners. He had a certain wanderlust inherited from his family’s folklore and so he was not the the first to leave Tasmania, that far-flung corner of the Commonwealth, for the tropical forests of Borneo.

In 1994, seeking “a little adventure in [his] own life“, with three companions, he set out to cross Kalimantan from his home base in Sangatta to Pontianak in the southwest. His journal of the seventeen day adventure, recounting travelling by taksi air (water taxis, “the local public transport“), climbing mountain ridges, trekking through forests, wading across streams and exploring cave systems in isolated areas, forms the core of the book.

A year after his “adventure”, he returned to Tasmania, a divorce, and further study. As the subject of his Ph.D was ‘intercultural literacy’, returning to Kalimantan seemed natural, and it was at his old school that he met his future wife. Although currently based in Jakarta, where Mark works as an educational consultant for an international NGO, their home is in Lombok, where they have the Studio, “a comfortable ecolodge”, and have helped set up a school for local children which invokes gotong royong, community action.

I’d only had time for a quick dip into the book before Mark and I first met up for a chat over a few Bintangs but, with delighted recognition, I had already realised that we were on the same page of different books.

Mark described his journal to me as “a little bit naive” and in writing a Tasmanian magazine article, which ended up as “half a book“, he realised that his “journey of a lifetime” was just part of a life’s journey.

And that becomes clear when reading Crazy Little Heaven. Although the journey across Kalimantan forms the main structure, it is divided into seven parts which act as pegs. These have allowed Mark to reflect not only on the ‘then’ but also on where it has lead him, to the ‘now’.

For example, in Part 5 the trekkers come across an isolated Dayak family whose sole occupation it seems is to harvest birds’ nest from caves in limestone outcrops by clambering up precarious bamboo scaffolding. However,while in the past birds’ nest were obtained exclusively from remote locations like this, more recently enterprising locals have begun farming the birds” for a “burgeoning Chinese market“.

Mark writes movingly about his visits to the orangutan rehabilitation centres founded by Willie Smits, the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation (BOS), and Biruté Galdikas who founded Camp Leakey.

With our greed and appetite for progress, our cruelty and inability to share the planet with other creatures, we have become have become a destructive plague. Looking into the eyes of a young orangutan threw this into stark relief. Is his the last generation?

Perhaps Mark’s journey is not so much myth-making as in placing his own in the context of the many myths westerners cannot grasp here. In order to conform to Indonesia’s marriage laws, Mark converted to Islam. In Part 6 – Rapids and Religion he offers an extensive ‘critique’ of religious ethical codes as practised here.

He witnessed the fatalism – Inshallah (God willing) – of Muslims in Aceh six months after the tsunami, yet I knew two parents who, having lost three of their four children to the waves, subsequently died of heart break.

His own sense of spirituality has lead him to climb many volcanoes throughout the archipelago. On Gunung Inerie on Flores, which is a predominantly Catholic island, he had a sense of awe and wonder.

Standing on that peak, nothing around us but sharp, slender air, a strange stillness, the roaring silence prompted me. Turning to our local guide I asked,Can you hear it? Can you hear the voice of God?

Nope,” he replied, with a puzzled look.

He later “wonders whether we should be looking beyond the Abrahamic religions for a spiritual basis for the environmental ethic we so desperately need.”

At the recent book launch in Kemang a local journalist asked Mark, What’s in it for Indonesian readers? His answer was that he hoped it would help Indonesia-Australia relations. A worthy aim, but as he told me, “Writing is an act of making meaning, sorting out the chaos, myth-making – and the primary audience is oneself.”

I suggested to Mark that because his journey as a young man had set the context of his life, perhaps the book served as a closure.

After twenty or so years spent travelling around the islands of Indonesia he said that Indonesia has become me. The more Indonesia becomes comprehensible and ‘normal’, the more I appreciate the beguiling mix of contradictions and ambiguities: a sweet disappearing world.

Living and travelling in Indonesia teaches you nothing if not flexibility in thinking.”

How very true.
First published in the Jakarta Expat magazine 7.10.13

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