David Jardine Poems

A selection of poems by David Jardine has recently surfaced. They were originally handwritten, photocopied and distributed to friends and newly made acquaintances alike that he met on his travels through Jakarta. They have been published on the site we've set up as an archive of Dave's writings.

If any reader has more of Dave's poems, please email me with details.


———————–Out on the South China Sea,
———————–An aircraft carrier, a pleasant swell.
———————–Pilot dons suit, gloves,
———————–Thinks of the one he loves
———————–Back home.

———————–In rural Tay Binh Province,
———————–A cluster of palms, girl at the well
———————–Draws water.
———————–A simple peasant's daughter,
———————–At home.

———————–Flowers of horror will bloom
———————–From a 300-gallon drum
———————–(Napalm) amongst the palms
———————–The pilot has no qualms.

———————–Amidst the ball of flame
———————–The girl-child rends her skin,
———————–Her hair, tears at her very soul.

———————–For her, an unsought fame
———————–As she runs naked down the road
———————–Right into T.V.'s maw
———————–And flashes across our screens,
———————–A simple peasant girl,
———————–Not yet in her teens.
—————————————————-D.J. 2009

Dave Jardine Memorial Walk

A hike in memory of David Jardine took place on Saturday 30th April at Gunung Salak. For a year prior to his death Dave had been resident in a Bogor guesthouse, where he enjoyed a fine view over the town rooftops, the Cisadane river and on to the cone of Gunung Salak. His expressed wish for his ashes to be scattered on the volcano fitted his love of nature generally, of the fells of his native Cumbria, and of the mountain landscapes of his adopted home..

On advice from Dan, our gunungbagging expert, our team opted not to carry the ashes up to the summit, a grueling whole day expedition suitable only for the young and fit. Instead we followed an attractive trail through montane forest to the Salak crater, some 800 meters below the summit. This path starts from the road adjacent to Javana Spa, a health resort with beautifully tended gardens and, germanely for us, a spacious car park.

Despite worries that a large vehicle might struggle on the narrow turns up to the start point, the Elf that Chris had hired for our eleven-person group turned out to do just fine along the narrow village tracks, past the clusters of warung on the way up to the forest and the gates of Javana Spa. For those who might want to do this hike themselves, access is from the Ciawi-Sukabumi road; just after crossing the railroad track there is a large Javana Spa sign indicating the turn-off to the right, with a further 12km up to Javana Spa. The hiking trail starts about 200m before the Spa entry at a small ranger hut with an iron gate and some steps leading into the forest.

Our hike started with an effort to find a shortcut from the Javana Spa car park directly onto the crater trail. This did not actually lead us where we wanted, but did give us a chance to view a large nursery of saplings donated by dozens of generous spa guests (including a few celebrities!). After contemplating the hope for reforestation we eventually backtracked down the road to the ranger hut and made our start from the “official” gate, which is also the starting point for the most popular Salak summit hike.

Our original plan was to walk the whole 5 km to the crater together for the scattering of the ashes. However it soon became apparent that our team- now twelve people with Byron having ridden up his trail bike to join bus-borne Terry, Lily, Jesse, Tim, Chris, Mark, Vonny, John (me), Iin, Simon and Dan-  were of such widely differing ages and speeds that a more sensible alternative was for only the fitter members to press on to the crater while the rest of us enjoyed just the first couple of kilometers along the forest trails. This is a beautiful lower montane forest, lush, green and cool, leaves dripping with moisture and birds twittering constantly from the undergrowth.

No wonder it is a popular destination. We met half a dozen groups heading up and down to camp or hike. One intrepid gang were even wheeling bikes up the trail. That, I suspect, was a misjudgment. Although the trail involves only a small overall ascent, it rises and falls over frequent small ravines of slippery rocks, where cycling up would be impossible and cycling down would be a kamikaze mission.

Besides a number of Indonesian hikers, we also met a fast-moving fellow Englishman, on an urgent mission to get ahead in a hurry. “I’ve got to catch up with some mates,” he explained breathlessly as he steamed past. “You mean, the guys taking David Jardine’s ashes up the mountain?” we surmised. “Yeah, that’s right!”

This, in fact, was Will, a late addition to our party who struck out boldly from Jakarta by train to Bogor and then by ojek up to the start point, all the while receiving cellphone updates from Simon about how to find the route and whether he had any realistic chance of catching up with us before we were already back at the car park resting our legs.

As it turned out he was well in time for the actual scattering of the ashes, which we divided into two phases, one at the crater itself, and one at the wooden bridge closer down toward the spa. This setting certainly inspired us with a sense of wonder and brought David back at one with the nature for which he had such feeling. As we Jakartans eye up the mountains on those haze-free days, Mount Salak will continue to impose itself on our senses, just as David’s memory will live on in our minds.

Bye Dave

As a reminder that Indonesia can sometimes be a most frustrating place, as well as a most inspiring one, we spent six hours stuck in traffic on the road back to Jakarta, specifically Jalan Jaksa, where we recovered with a much-needed meal and drank to his memory. What would Dave himself have had to say about our little jungle jaunt in homage to him?

I don’t know. But I think he would have had a twinkle in his eye.
Contributed by John Hargreaves.

Dave Jardine R.I.P.

I first met Dave some 22/3 years ago here in Jakarta.

We were both English language teachers and part of a thriving community yet relatively small fry in a larger expat pond. Our drinking haunts were then centred around the Blok M bars, where we mingled with brawny American and Australian oil workers, geologists and other hard-drinking folk.

We had a few things in common: we were both former UK primary school teachers with responsibility for managing our respective school's football teams, we both supported the football clubs of our teenage years – his was Carlisle United and mine still is Charlton Athletic – through good times and bad. (These past two seasons, our clubs have languished together in the third tier of the Football League.)

Another key to our relationship was that, although I'm a Londoner, I spent a few years living in West Cumbria, a few miles south of Carlisle, where I developed a lifelong antagonism towards the nuclear power industry. We were both keenly aware of the economic dependency of the region on the one remaining major industry – the Windscale Nuclear Plant. To balance this, we were also able to share reminiscences of hiking through the fells of the Lake District and the beers to be found in country pubs. (Our tipple of choice here is Bintang – there isn't that much to choose from.)

Both of us shared a horror of Margaret Thatcher, a trait which remained close to the surface throughout the rest of his life. He would regularly send me links to articles about the various horrors and ills which he perceived throughout the imperialist camps of the UK and USA,

When we met he would have a full-blooded rant, much of which I tried to tune out because my moans and rants have generally been more parochial, focussed on the world in which I live, Although, like all folk 'exiled' from our native lands, our perceptions bestraddle two worlds, Dave was raised as an airforce brat, regularly decamping to his father's overseas postings. To my knowledge, he only once rented a semi-permanent home in all the 23 or so years he lived in Jakarta, and latterly, Bogor.

Not being a psychoanalyst, I hesitate to wonder why he never formed a lasting relationship with a soulmate. Just once he almost achieved one and Dave arranged to take her back to the UK to meet his family. She never turned up at the airport. Maybe that is why he often appeared to wear an aura of alienation. To the many folk who encountered Dave in recent years, he was the 'bag man', a cantankerous and opinionated old sod. He was profoundly deaf in both ears. At times it was difficult to penetrate his ramblings; though perhaps he just didn't hear our interjections,

But then, he was also our 'Quiz Master', displaying a profound knowledge of many topics. He was someone who could retain dates and names of so many seemingly esoteric subjects that there were few who would achieve high scores. At times the Bintang got to him and a quiz would suddenly cease because of a perceived slight, perhaps a moment of inattention as a team member wandered off to order another round, or to make room for it. There were also occasions when the quiz didn't actually start: the Bintang had reached him before we did.

A few years ago, in 2004, he returned to the UK for an operation on a cancerous growth on the left side of his face. Knowing that his income depended on articles he wrote for a number of English language publications, friends organised a benefit for him so that he would have some cash in hand as he tried to sell, and get paid for, another article.

I suspect that his book, Foreign Fields Forever, a short, compact history of one of Britain's forgotten ‘little’ wars, namely the conflict with the new Republic of Indonesia from 1945-1946, will be hard to find.

However, many of his articles can be found in these publications:

Jakarta Post
Socialist Worker (UK)

I have been sent an archive of articles from the monthly magazine JakartaJave Kini which I can't upload as it's a zip file. Email me if you'd like to read them.

I've also published a number of articles on Jakartass when the main media have decined to publish them. Access them here.

When I last saw Dave, just over a week ago here in Jakartass Towers, I thought he looked better than in a very long while. He was in a very positive frame of mind and, at his request, I willingly agreed to publish an 'advertorial' for his self-produced 'Mutton Mutiny Scrapbooks'. This now won't happen. Dave deserves a wider audience and as a suitable epitaph I may open a blog containing his articles.

Although I'm immeasurably sad at his passing on April 8th, maybe the nature of it was kind. He was sitting in an armchair, hand on his chest, so the end was in some ways merciful. We're all getting older – Dave was 63, not 60 as media reports suggested – and the future here can be bleak for those of us far from our 'homelands'.

His family are due to arrive tomorrow (Wednesday) to arrange his cremation. On a number of occasions Dave expressed his wish that his ashes be scattered on the slopes of Gunung Salak. An expedition is already planned for the end of this month and although his family may have other wishes, the hike will go ahead as a mark of respect.

As a mutual friend has written, "it's a cliche, but this is like the passing of an era."

Well, not yet, as I hope the wake, yet to be arranged, will prove.

Go thee well, Dave.

I’m losing my faith …

… in Jokowi.

Having never – repeat – never had faith in Prabowo, I’ll just say this about him:

The overtly Muslim political parties have joined the Prabowo-Hatta coalition, as has the FPI (= Effing Perverted Islamists), notorious for its violent raids against bars, churches and anything which their twisted and bigoted minds feel might upset their chances of being greeted by loads of virgins when they shuffle off, or get kicked off, the mortal coil. None of them seem to realise that those virgins waiting for them are aged Catholic nuns who having lived a life of chastity are not often noted for their sense of humour, and certainly wouldn’t have stood for any bullshit while they were sentient beings.

I do have some faith in Jokowi, not least because he has risen from ‘humble’ origins and as Mayor of Surakarta (Solo) and Governor of Jakarta, a big step up, has made a point of listening to folk who would be affected by his policies in the respective City Halls as well as and transforming the bureaucracies within to make them more transparent and responsive to the public. He has given very many of us a sense of optimism, a renewed idealistic hope, that the reformasi movement engendered following the forced abdication of the dictator Suharto may yet have solid roots.

A couple of days ago, it was reported that if elected, Jokowi would remove the designation of religion on the national identity card to prevent discrimination.

According to Musdah Mulia, a member of Jokowi’s campaign team, Jokowi considered the faith status as leading to discrimination, such as making it easier for a hardline group to conduct a religious sweep during a conflict.

“Another example is on job applications. A job seeker might be rejected just because the religion is different with (sic) the boss.”

She said that the faith status should only be recorded for the purpose of collecting data on the population and for civil registry.

Great, we thought.

What a person believes should be private, as long as our views do not impinge on the rights of others to hold contrary beliefs.

However, yesterday, the campaign team denied the plan, basically because in the autonomous sharia law governed province of Aceh, the religious police wouldn’t know who to cane for transgressions, and if someone dies alone with no friend and family with no religion stated on their ID card, no-one would know which religious funeral ritual to conduct.

This of course ignores the fact that uncounted numbers of Indonesians don’t actually have an ID card, and die unknown and/or unidentified. Are they all buried according to Muslim rituals?

Pause here for personal anecdotes.

  • A good friend, David Jardine, passed away three years ago. He was an atheist, yet the service at the crematorium was, and seemingly had to be, conducted with Christian prayers and hymns. This may have been a comfort to some of us, but if I had believed in an afterlife I would have imagined Dave watching us with a wry smile while mouthing “WTF?”

  • I’m a Muslim, but only because that’s what’s written on the I.D. card of ‘Er Indoors and we couldn’t have got married in Indonesia if we professed different faiths. It somehow seemed easier for me to go through the meaningless to me rituals conducted in Arabic, a language I don’t speak or read.

Yesterday, Jokowi said he had no plan to drop the religion section from ID cards.

“We have Pancasila as our country’s foundation. Its first article clearly says ‘Ketuhanan Yang Maha Esa’ (The Belief in One God), so having a religion is part of our character and identity,” Jokowi told reporters in Tegal, Central Java.

He said there was no practical reason to drop the religion section from ID cards.

“Why should we remove it if we know that this concerns our national identity?” he said.

“The Bhinneka Tunggal Ika [Unity in Diversity] principle must be upheld.”

I really like that principle and wish more countries had a similar doctrine. Yes, it must be upheld, but the belief in one God has lead to umpteen cases of religious-based violence, including attacks against followers of the Ahmadiyah in Banten and Lombok, and Shiites in Sampang, East Java, the illegal closure of churches, and the demolition of the Jewish synagogue in Surabaya.

Furthermore, the Belief in One God runs counter to Article XI of Indonesia’s Constitution which guarantees religious freedom for all.

Indonesia recognises just six religions, yet ‘tactfully’ permits certain groups, such as the Badui in West Java and the Mentawai in West Sumatra, to practice their ancient belief systems.

So whose ‘God’ should we follow?

I agree that there is only one, but not one officially recognised by the Indonesian government. Before the rise of monotheist (and masculine) religions some two thousand years ago, humanity worshipped many gods which truly governed the elements. Many were feminine goddesses, e.g. Isis, the Earth Goddess of Egypt and Gaia, the Mother Goddess of ancient Greece, creator and giver of birth to the Earth.

Whatever we call her, and I prefer Mother Nature, ‘she’ remains all powerful, and there isn’t anything that man-made religious constructs can do about it.

And that is why Indonesia should disband the Department of Religious Affairs (which allows polygamy, and other forms of corruption), and expand the Department of the Environment. Sadly, there has been no commitment or concern expressed by Jokowi or anyone in his campaign team about the post-reformasi ravaging of Indonesia’s ‘natural resources’ by private domestic and foreign companies.

The only indication of his awareness of its importance has been through the development of a bit more green space in Solo and Jakarta.

Hence my slowly fading faith.

The Timbuk 3 have a universal message.- Prey

Good Reads About Jakarta

I recently read a headline online which simply said 'Yes, Live In Jakarta', and I wondered which of the pairs in the gubernatorial election to be held this coming July was putting a positive spin on life here. All I've heard from them up to now is which of the many problems facing the megapolis they intend to prioritise.

Of course, and once again, I was wrong. The article actually referred to a gig on the world tour of the near-geriatric prog-rock group Yes; tickets cost more than a circuit judge's monthly salary.

There are so many stimuli assaulting one's senses in Jakarta that trying to understand it all without the insights of others is nigh on impossible. Whether stuck in a traffic jam or a meeting to discuss when the next meeting should take place, or you just want to switch off for a while, a good solution is to always have a good book in your backpack or briefcase.

The following are partial lists of what is on my bookshelves about Jakarta, past and present. They are arranged in chronological order according to the periods they are set in.


Historical Sights of Jakarta
– Adolf Heuken. pub. Times Books International,1989.
Numerous maps and illustrations, and details of little-known, and often neglected, historical places of interest.

A Certain Age
– Rudolph Mrázek. pub. Duke University Press 2010
Colonial Jakarta through the memories of its intellectuals. An academic work which is very readable.

In The Time Of Madness
– Richard Lloyd Parry. pub. Jonathon Cape 2005
A journalist witnesses the revolution in 1998 which saw the abdication of President Suharto.

Eyes of God
– Philip Babcock. pub. Edgeworth Press 2011
A multi-levelled Conradian thriller is set in the turbulent times of 97/98. Babcock was blacklisted and deported presumably because he was a pawn in the struggles for slices of Pertamina following the injection of IMF funds. The introductory passages are set in Jakarta gangs, a five star-hotel and the American Embassy.


Jakarta Inside out
– Daniel Ziv. pub. Desa Kota 4th edition 2009
A street level look and "a love letter to a city [he's] been proud to call home for over a decade."
Through short incisive commentaries which accompany candid photos,.Ziv provides insights into the chaotic reality of everyday life in the city.

My Jakarta
– pub. Jakarta Globe 2010
A compilation of Jakarta Globe interviews with Jakarta residents talking about – erm – "My Jakarta".

– Irfan Kortschak. pub. Mercy Corps 2008
Selected portraits of Jakarta’s itinerant street vendors – tales of strength in adversity rather than despair and defeat.

Jakarta, Jayakarta, Batavia
– ed. Leonard Lueras. pub. Yayasan Bali Purnati 2008.
A coffee table tome with essays and fine photos – an excellent souvenir of your stay.

Culture Shock! Jakarta
– Terry Collins and Derek Bacon. pub. Marshall Cavendish 2nd edition 2011
fr. Amazon review: As an Indonesian born and living around Jakarta, reading this book still managed to give me insights about the little and not-so-little things that escaped my attention.
(No apologies for an unashamed plug.)


The Year Of Living Dangerously
– C.J.Koch. pub. Grafton 1978
About journalists waiting for the revolution in 1965 which saw the downfall of President Sukarno. Banned during the Suharto era as was the movie, starring Mel Gibson, which has recently been shown on local TV.

Monkeys In The Dark
– Blanche d'Alpuget. pub. Aurora 1980
Life in Jakarta among expats in the inter-regnum between the '65 coup and Sukarno's exile.

+ not Jakarta specific, but Batavia features strongly.

Batavia’s Graveyard
– Mike Dash. pub. Three Rivers Press N.Y. 2002
“The true story of the mad heretic who led history’s bloodiest mutiny – in 1629”

Nathaniel's Nutmeg
– Giles Milton pub. Sceptre 1999
“A galloping good jaunt through the early days of western interaction with the Spice Islands.”

Ups and Downs of Life In The Indies
– P.A.Daum. pub. Periplus 1999
Dutch colonial life in the nineteenth century.

By Indonesian writers

Twilight In Jakarta
– Mochtar Lubis (1963)
The first Indonesian novel to be translated into English in 1964. His tale of life in the kampungs, with its politics, poverty, corruption and crime, when he was a thorn in the side of Sukarno, still seems relevant today.

– Ayu Utami. (1998) Translation pub. Equinox. 2005
Utami covers many of Indonesia's social ills, such as exploitation of plantation workers, political oppression, religious and sexual identity, in the last years of Suharto's regime. This is an outstanding and courageous novel, with echoes for today.

Also worth reading is anything by Pramoedya Ananta Toer.

Those wishing to delve into academia will find a myriad theses and articles published by universities and smaller publishing houses. You can read about the history, geography, ecology, culture and more of the archipelago from pre-historic times to the current reformasi era.

Publishes a wide range of non-fiction, mainly in the business and political arenas, They also republish long-out-of-print works, both fiction and non-fiction, as well as new works by, e.g. Michael Vatikiotis and translations e.g. Ayu Utami's Sanam (see below).

Periplus Editions
Browse their catalogue for high-quality illustrated books, dictionaries and maps on Indonesia and other southeast Asian countries.

Lontar Foundation
Since its founding in 1987 Lontar has concentrated its efforts on creating a 'market' for Indonesian literature abroad through the steady publication of Indonesian literary titles in English translation.

Yayasan Bali Purnati
Coffee table tomes with fine photographs illustrating essays from local contributors.


Blogs and other Websites.

Even a blind man can see that more folk carry 'smart' phones than carry books. If you are one of those, then there are several non-commercial websites, especially blogs, which offer different insights into Jakarta. We bloggers come and go and are rarely objective but these are my current favourites:
Rujak.org – for a sustainable Jakarta (in Indonesian).
Bataviase – loads of links and info (in Indonesian).
Jakarta Kid – insightful stories of Jakarta's street kids.
Jakarta 100 Bars – as it says on the tin.
Jakarta Daily Photo – ditto.
Gangs of Indonesia – fine photo-journalism.
Jakarta Restaurant Reviews  – as it says.
Inside Indonesia – monthly, with email subscriptions, readable, wide ranging in-depth articles.

The late David Jardine wrote many book reviews for Tempo magazine and other publications. Most of them have been archived here.
First published in Jakarta Expat 69th edition (9th-22nd May 2012)

I Write. Therefore I Am

How do I know what I think until I see what I say?
E.M. Forster (1879 – 1970)

Way back in the mists of my search for companionship, on the rebound from marriage number whatever, I'd thrown myself into various causes, one of which paid me from the grants I'd solicited from a number of charitable foundations, (Irrelevant – Ed).I placed a 'personal ad' in Time Out London. I can't remember the exact wording – it probably mentioned my motorbike, an MZ ETZ 250 with a front disc brake …… (Relevant or an interesting titbit? – Ed)

(A personalising aside – J)

Anyway, what attracted one lass, who I'm still in touch with 25 or so years later, was my description of myself as an auto-didact. She was intrigued because she had to look the word up in a dictionary. It has its roots in the Ancient Greek words αὐτός (autós, or "self") and διδακτικός (didaktikos, meaning 'teaching'). (Informational 'cos not a lot of people know that – J)

And in that word with ancient roots lies my motivation for putting my right forefinger to keyboard: I write because I want to know if I can. And this post is about the 'knowing'.

I'll let you, dear reader (No need for condescention! – Ed), make of it what you will. However, please note that, as with our cavemen forefathers' (and mothers') cave drawings, what you see is a mere spoor, a trace of where I am and where I've been. In the timescale of things, it matters not a jot except for one key element: it has taken me quite a few days to construct this post.

I like to think of myself as a weaver of words offering a cornucopia of connections in order to make sense of it all. So this is not a technological tweet, a piece of ephemera of little value except to gossipmongers or those craving their 15 seconds of fame.

No sirree. It's (hopefully) a well-crafted exercise in eloquence, an example of my erudition, an expatriate expatiation, an experimental expectoration …. (That's quite enough alliteration, thank you! – Ed)


Writing Rules – OK?
The main benefit of blogging is that I don't work to a deadline, except to one of my choosing. Commissioned work, such as the occasional book reviews, require a greater focus of energies. In general terms then, these are steps I usually take before posting online.

One rule of thumb, or whatever digit you type with, is to consider what your anticipated readers know or might be expected to know.

Don't state the bleedin' obvious!

1. Plan
First, I need to have a spark of curiosity.

Occasionally, it's lit by an incident I witness, something sent me by an email correspondent, a picture, or just a distinctive title.

Generally though, my daily news reads, the paper edition of the Jakarta Post or the Guardian-online, are favoured sources. If the former, I tend to cut out and save the article(s) of interest. If the latter, or other sites, I copy and paste sections in WordPad, with the URL, and save these notes in a pending file.

Like a good wine, I allow them to mature, adding connections until I feel able to link my notes through a rough mental picture, with an introduction, a middle section, which can be likened to the filling in a sandwich, and a conclusion. It's only then that I set out to write a draft, offline.

2. Organise
Unlike me, Jenn at The Writing Smithy in the UK, is not usually a planner – but because [of this] there’s a lot of fun and freedom in first drafts. All the decisions open to a writer are up for grabs and [she doesn't] feel any great pressure to fix on a tense, a theme, a point of view or even a plot at this stage. It is only when the first draft is more or less complete … that [she] can start to see, more or less, what the shape of the thing might be.

At this point I'll do some additional research, remembering to copy the URLs of whatever I'm quoting, and often end up with something very different from my original concept. So this is but the beginning because, to quote Ernest Hemingway, "The first draft of anything is shit."

Let's assume that after much rewriting, interspersed with a few meals, episodes of The Walking Dead and a sleep or three, you think you've cracked it at last. You're ready to publish … or are you?

If you're writing something to be published online, then I recommend a browser add-on called ScribeFire, which is a simple to use editor from which you can post, or save as a draft, much as you can with WordPress, Blogger and other blog dashboards, but without their occasional glitches.

And this is where I get to put the finishing touches to what you see herein.

3. Proofread and/or Copyedit
i.e. Check and double-check before publishing or you could appear to be foolish!

Yesterday being the first anniversary of the passing of much-missed friend David Jardine, I re-read the obituary I wrote last year. I was abashed to discover that I'd written 'exhibition' instead of 'expedition'. This is, of course, now corrected. It may be a blow to my self-esteem, but nowhere as serious a cock-up as those committed by the professionals in the mass media.

Example 1
The Australian arm of the publishing firm Penguin has ordered 7,000 copies of a cookbook to be pulped after a  highly embarrassing and potentially offensive error resulted in a recipe calling not for "freshly ground black pepper", but for "freshly ground black people".

Example 2
Indonesia's Deputy Health Minister Ali Ghufron Mukti said that at least 96 million people, or 40 percent of the country’s poor population, would be eligible for the universal health coverage once it takes effect in the early (what?) of 2014.

If 40% = 96 million, then 100% = 240 million; this was the total population counted at the last census in 2010. It makes a change for a minister to be so open about the government's failings.


Some serious blogs about writing.

– Laura Payne may enjoy a Walk in the WoRds, but she is serious about the mechanics of English and offers a "linguistic tour for people who love having fun with words and language."

– I'm more of a left-brained individual, so I prefer Mark Forsyth's Inky Fool blog which explores the connections of words, as well as good writing.

"An academic fellow once told [him] that the best way to spot the weak point in a long essay is to flick through and find the longest paragraph, because that will always be where the writer was most confused. It's a rather good trick, and saves actually reading things."

– Putative pulp fiction writers would do well do browse through Joel Stickley's How To Write Badly Well. This he does – erm – rather well.

– Finally, I'm a subscriber to Michael Quinion's World Wide Words email newsletter. 'Sic' is my favourite section and he once published a contribution from me taken from the Jakarta post: Crocs Go Hungry Due To Lack Of Tourists.

To quote Kurt Vonnegut, "So it goes."
Did you spot my deliberate spelling error?

Batam and the Riau Islands

Batam and the Riau Islands is the sixth in a series of 'coffee-table' books produced by Leonard Lueras, noted author of Surfing Indonesia, and the Yayasan Bali Purnati focused on aspects of Indonesia often overlooked by tourists and residents alike. The first three in the series were portraits of Sanur, Kuta and Ubud, but more recently Leonard has moved beyond Bali. This is no bad thing. I've learned a lot about Yogyakarta and even Jakarta which I have written about extensively for nine years.

A bulky hardback, Batam and the Riau Islands could well have benefited from having been published as a pair. One is of interest to business folk and Singaporeans wishing to enjoy whatever modern benefits are offered on Batam and Bintan, whilst the other sheds light on a few of the other 3,200 islands which make up the Province, sleepy backwaters which have a rare significance in world history.

In recent years, few non-Indonesians have visited any of the islands which make up the Riau Archipelago which faces Malaysia and Singapore, whereas Batam, and to a lesser extent Bintan, which are described as "some of the most developed and affluent parts of Indonesia", are familiar to many.

Indeed, such is the vastness of this country that in my 24 plus years here, I have only had a cursory glance at Batam whilst en route to Singapore by ferry, and I didn't like what I saw.

Many of the photographs depict "Batam's penchant for colorful structures".

In her essay 'Batam Today', Jan Russell writes: "Batam is building, building, building. Throughout, the earth has been torn up, left raw and exposed in every shade from pastel peach to russet red, to make way for colorful rukos (shophouses), flimsy as film sets, or close-knit worker housing such as one that is elegantly titled, with no apparent irony, the Family Dream Home."

To this reviewer, these rows of rukos were seemingly inspired by Legoland or Disneyland.

The satellite towns of Jakarta are littered with similar eyesores.

The final chapter is a hagiographic account of the achievement of Pak Kris Taenar Wiluan in developing the Citramas Group from a pipe-processing firm employing 40 people in 1983 to an international group now employing 4,000 people in 20 countries with revenues "exceeding US$1 billion".

He could not have managed this without political backing, and the chapter entitled Batam's "Father" is most illuminating, as it is an interview conducted by Leonard with former Indonesian President Bacharrudin Habibie. He tells how the then General Suharto used Batam as his headquarters during the Konfrontasi between Indonesia and Malaya (1963-1966), because he could see across to Singapore, then part of Malaya. He observed the movement of shipping and said, "My goodness, this is a very strategic place."

Chris Holm's essay, Batam Means Business, chronicles the foundation in 1971 of the Batam Industrial Development Authority (BIDA) by the astonishingly corrupt Ibnu Sutowo. In March 1979, B.J. Habibie took the helm of BIDA and from the outset he envisaged Batam developing a synergy with Singapore and Malaysia, whilst using Singapore's development as an example "to motivate [my] people."

Talking about the situation on Batam now, Pak Habibie said, "Now they are not consistent with their planning. They do what they want."

As always?


The first essay, Origins, is by the late David Jardine*, former book reviewer of this parish, who has written from a historian's perspective with his expected objective and detailed insight.

Since the early stages of human migration the Riau islands and Lingga (the group of islands further from the coast of Sumatra) "at the swing point of the Straits of Malacca, the Java Sea and the South China Sea" have been "of the greatest significance."

The first migration of note was of the Malayoid people, originally from the north-western part of Yunnan in China. Later proto-Malays were seafaring people, probably from coastal Borneo, who expanded into Sumatra and Peninsular Malaysia as a result of trading and seafaring activities. Their gene pool mixed with other races, mainly Thai, Arab and Chinese, who "perhaps needless to say", brought their religions and cultures, remnants of which remain to this day.

Arabs, who traded with the Romans, and Chinese of the Chou dynasty established a sea route some two hundred years before the Christian era (BCE).

As Jill Gocher writes in her essay Royal Riau, one reason for the importance for the strategic importance of the Riau islands is that "the two annual monsoons that hit this area allowed traders from India, Arabia and China to converge here – to stay for each respective monsoon before heading homeward laden with the precious commodities of the other side. They left Riau with Chinese silks and porcelains, spices from the Spice Islands, textiles from India, and timbers, gold, gems and other exotic treasures from Borneo."

David Jardine writes of the Buddhist state of Sriwijaya which, from the 7th century CE, "was pre-eminent in the region and exacted tribute from far and wide [and] attracted the devout from as far away as China to study in its schools and temples."

But not all was peace and love. The seafarer Fa-Hsien had made the journey from China to India in 413-414 and reported that "the waters of Southeast Asia are full of pirates", the many islands of Riau and Lingga "providing a multitude of bolt-holes to which one could escape with plunder", as they have done continuously to this day. Once the Europeans arrived to fight over the spice trade, the Bugis of South Sulawesi became such major players in piracy that English children are still taught to “beware of the Bogey Man".


But what of now?

Gilles Massot writes of the “motley crowd” that makes up the 'Riau Mosaic', which now includes the remnants of the Vietnamese boatpeople who were originally housed on Galang island by the Indonesian government.

Steve Kell's focus is on Tanjung Pinang, capital of Riau Islands province, and Bintan, the largest of the Riau islands. He wandered among the villages, explored beaches and neighbouring islands occupied by single families and interacted with "lots of friendly people". He did not explore the northern part of Bintan as "approximately 20 years ago the Indonesian government leased much of it to Singaporean business interests, and it has since been turned into a luxury resort … where prices for goods and services are quoted in Singapore dollars."

Evan Jones is a pioneer explorer of the islands, paddling by canoe "in a silent and deserted wilderness of mangroves and coastlines intersected by an occasional black sand beach." However, as he points out, tourism has declined partly due to "government policies which make travel to Indonesia difficult.'


Through the many fine photographs and much of the writing, one rediscovers that thanks to its location Indonesia is, and always has been, one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world. If for that reason alone, we should be grateful to Leonard Leuras for the reminder.

But one thought does not go away: where is the foreword from the Ministry of Tourism?
Published in Tempo Magazine (English) March 11th 2011
NB. The illustrations here are from the book, whereas the Map of the Arab-China trade route is taken from here.
* Leonard Lueras has kindly donated 'Origins – Geography is Destiny'' to the David Jardine online archives. 

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