6 May
Once a Brit …
Before getting down to specifics, here are a few generalisations.
There are three types of Brits here in Indonesia: the short-term tourists, travellers and researchers, the limited-term business folk and diplomats, and the long-term residents.
In general, the first group make of Indonesia what they will, generally with the surface attention of their ingrained prejudices and cultural biases. And yes, I do include researchers who observe and anotate rather than living the life.
We long-term residents came here either as tourists or on a fixed-term contract. This was my route. It was happenstance that brought me here – I originally wanted to return to Thailand, but was offered a teaching contract in Jakarta which was extended upon its completion.
Finally, it being a hot country and therefore easy to take one's clothes off, I decided to stay. I had also told Son No.1 that I would be where he could find me, at least until his 18th birthday. Now he's 34, he still finds me with great ease. I live in the same house and our family are active members of the local community, The support of our neighbours in our times of stress, (e.g. a bereavement and my legal process – still awaiting final resolution!) has been very gratefully received and, where possible, reciprocated. Mind you, I do have a lower noise threshold than most.
The group I am concerned about today are the second group, who are here to represent their interests, specifically, the ones they brought with them.
The British Embassy, as an outpost of the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) in London, is specific about this: The FCO works towards achieving its objectives and strategic priorities through the funding of a number of programmes. The British Embassy in Jakarta welcomes the submission of concept proposals under on of (sic) the funding streams outlined below:
e,g. Prosperity Fund
Build Britain’s prosperity by increasing exports and investment, opening markets, ensuring access to resources, and promoting sustainable global growth.
Diplomats and representatives of larger companies are provided with 'hardship allowances'. These generally include large mansions in exclusive, meaning astronomically expensive, areas, with domestic staff, company transport, western medical schemes, proper international schools for their children, and security staff at the gates to keep the hoi-polloi away. It's life in a bubble, a British bubble in that contacts with the outside world are generally formal
This was implicit in the words of the British ambassador, Sir Charles Humphrey and his wife Enid upon his retirement in early 2008. Interviewed for the March issue of Update, the monthly magazine of the British Chamber of Commerce, he said that "both Enid and I have enjoyed … travelling, both officially and privately, … but there are still a number of places unvisited. We had been planning a trip to Ternate and Banda and I think we shall slip back quietly without telling anyone and do the trip later on."
That remoteness from 'reality' extends to longer-term British residents. Our passports are renewed in Hong Kong and registration with the local consulate is now done online through a complicated website, which I've commented on before as here, where few have broadband, it certainly doesn't take "a few minutes to register".
I am British; there's no escaping where I'm from. I continue to support Charlton Athletic and regularly receive official (i.e. embossed) invitations to embassy functions. The most recent was to a Reception to celebrate the official birthday of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II & the wedding of HRH Prince William & Catherine Middleton. I thought that it was a good idea, although somewhat parsimonious, to combine the two, to kill two birds with one stone.
(I didn't attend as I was involved in co-ordinating the Dave Jardine Memorial Walk. Besides, I don't have the requisite attire for such occasions: batik, lounge suit or uniform.)
However, I prefer to live in the here and now, unlike those appointed to represent my interests.
There was a demonstration yesterday by residents who live in the streets near the Embassy. They parked their cars to protest five – why so many? – new security road gates that have restricted access to their homes. Their demonstration "made it difficult for embassy staff to enter the embassy compound."
Well, this accords with my British sense of fair play.
Apparently there is nothing the police or City Hall can do, except to politely ask the Embassy to remove the gates.
There is always an element of paranoia among diplomats, often evidenced in a condescension towards the local 'natives', as an email from British embassy spokesperson Faye Belnis sent to The Jakarta Post seems to indicate.
“I can confirm to you that the Embassy are always careful to take into consideration the concerns and interests of neighbors in conducting Embassy business. However we do not discuss about our security arrangements.”
Three years ago I wrote that I had met former ambassador Richard Godzney a few times and felt that he was more at ease with the ‘people’ than other representatives. Going to the roundabout outside the embassy at HI in order to chat with demonstrating students, was well-appreciated and shortly before he departed he was awarded a national award for his command of Indonesian.
I will also never forget the meeting we wardens had with him the day after the Bali bombs in 2002. Those were very difficult times when the embassy was operating under siege-like conditions and it struck me that RG demonstrated great courage, not only in dealing with the ‘priorities’ of the British interests (and personnel) here, but appreciating that considerable numbers of us would not feature in any anticipated evacuation.
I hope that the residents of Menteng won't have the inconvenience of having the British neighbourhood much longer.
HOK, "one of the world’s largest and most acclaimed architectural design firms" has created a "dynamic design for the new British Embassy building in Jakarta."
HOK’s project director, Andrew Barraclough comments : “This is a fantastic project in a truly challenging climate. We’re giving considerable thought to the use of locally sourced materials to give an excellent life cycle. We want the building to appear as if it’s been hewn from a single piece of stone to provide a sense of solidity and security.”
The 3,800 m² scheme is designed over three levels and is located on a 1.5 hectare site in central Jakarta.

I do like the notion of it being in a large open space surrounded by trees, but the only such area I can think of in Central Jakarta is currently occupied by the National Monument.
The project is due to complete in 2011.
Really? Based on my observations as a long-term resident I fear the Menteng residents are going to have to wait a while longer.
But at least they've found somewhere to park their cars.
I have often been intrigued by the FCO's attitude to their embassy in Jakarta, here they have quite simply the finest location for any embassy in the centre of the world's fourth largest nation, third largest democracy and largest Muslim majority society on the planet and instead of building a great big celebration of the place of the UK in the world and in SE Asia they get by in a crappy old functional building that looks like a municipal office of public works in some dreary town northern England.
And don't get me started on the fact that the actual consulate is located in a non-descript suite on the 19th floor of of the Deutsche Bank Building complete with revolving Mercedes Star on the roof to emphasise the Teutonic triumphalism.Now they want to give up this prime location to move to a no doubt ghastly post modernist monstrosity in Kuningan. Can you imagine the Chinese, Americans or even Indians being so reticent?
(On that point I recently was told that the UK embassy was formerly the PRC embassy and was handed to the Brits in 1966 after the Chinese were kicked out by Suharto as compensation for having their old one burnt down during Konfrontasi, any truth in this?)
It all reminds me of the appalling case of the British Embassy in Bangkok, a beautiful, stately building slap dab in the heart of the city with a sweeping lawn and magnificent flag pole made from a ship's mast. A real treasure and the Brits sold it off to property developers to make a few million quid. No doubt the Foreign Office's paper clip fund was well remunerated by such a sell off but I fear the loss of prestige in an important Asian capital would hardly be balanced by such a transaction.
By Konfrontasi, I presume you're referring to the Sukarno adventure against Malaya which was supposed to deflect criticism of the country's dire economic condition.
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I've heard the story about the embassy being granted as compensation as well. However, could it have been granted in thanks for supplying a few PKI names to Suharto?