Image of the Week – 177 (Anthropocene)

Longji Rice Terraces                     .

In a current TV advert for Chinese tourism, there is an image of rice terraces described as a “natural landscape”. This is followed by an image of the Leshan Giant Buddha, the largest stone Buddha in the world which took 90 years to complete, from 713-803 AD.

Surely they took at least a generation to construct and to describe them as “natural” is a further indication that Mankind has lost the essential connection with the forces of Mother Nature.

Gaia Vince‘s “ambitious, all-embracing, compelling journey” of her book Adventures in the Anthropocene has been well received.

She writes here that no part of this planet is untouched by human influence.

Geologists of the far future will note in the fossil records the extinctions of wild animals and the abundance of domesticates, the chemical fingerprint of materials such as aluminium drinks cans and plastic carrier bags.

Our influence will show up as a mass of species going extinct, changes in the chemistry of the oceans, the loss of forests and the growth of deserts, the retreat of glaciers and the sinking of islands.

The key question which has to be faced now is whether Mankind is prepared to face extinction in the near future. Do we carry on blindly consuming all, or do we “modulate our natural urges, our impacts and our environment, such that we can maintain habitability on Earth into the future?

You decide.
Anthropocene: a proposed geological epoch that began when human activities started to have a significant global impact on Earth’s ecosystems.

Copy for larger image

There’s a time line of the human impact on the planet here.

50 Years of Near Silence

Every year Indonesians ‘commemorate’ 30th September as they believe that in 1965 six of Indonesia’s most senior generals and an aide were shot and dumped into a deep well known as Lubang Buaya (Crocodile Hole). That cataclysmic event actually occurred in the early hours of October 1st.

Autopsy reports proved that contrary to popular gossip, and later the official line, their bodies had not been mutilated by communist harridans. Evidence indicates that the PKI, Indonesia’s Communist Party, were not directly responsible and that the Machiavellian mind of Gen. Suharto was at work.

In his new book A Brief History of Indonesia, Tim Hannigan, suggests the following: The most likely scenario is that the junior officers of Sukarno’s presidential guard had believed that a coup against Sukarno was imminent and that they acted on their own initiative, possibly with the tacit approval of some elements of PKI, but without the party’s full knowledge or approval.

That it lead to a massive genocide is well-known. Although no accurate accounting has ever been undertaken: the most common estimate is that between 500,000 and 1,000,000 were killed. Many were the settling of personal scores, but Hannigan suggests that “what was most striking was how organised it was.”

Indeed. One of the close friends of the murdered General Ahmad Yani, the army commander, was General Sarwo Edhie Wibowo*, then commander of the elite red-beret para-commando unit KPKAD, later renamed Kopassus. The conspirators behind the attempted coup had taken to the airwaves and announced themselves as Gerakan Tiga-Puluh September (G30S – 30 September Movement). The PKI was particularly active in , Central Java where some army units had come out in support of G30S.

General Wibowo sought revenge for the murder of his friend and “within weeks had eliminated whatever power the PKI once had” in the province. He later explained to the American journalist John Hughes what he had done.

We decided to encourage the anti-Communist civilians to help with the job … we gathered together the youth, the nationalist groups, the religious organisations. We gave them two or three day’s training and then sent them out to kill the Communists...”

Joshua Oppenheimer’s gripping yet repulsive drama-documentary, The Act of Killing, ‘stars’ one such group of youths in Medan, north Sumatra. Naturally it was not given a showing in public cinemas in Indonesia, so Jagal, the Indonesian title, was made available for free and can be viewed here. The English version DVD can be bought here.

The past fifty years has not brought peace for the survivors, those imprisoned for many years, and their families. The Suharto era saw a process of indoctrination whereby the population was lead to believe that the PKI were solely responsible for the attempted coup. The process of reformasi has done little to overcome that notion, and if anything has continued the direct inculcation.

In 2004, the education ministry in SBY’s administration revised school history books to say that PKI had been only one of several instigators of the 1965 coup attempt. Then in 2006 sole blame for the events was returned to the PKI, on the grounds that having the PKI as the main perpetrator was “the most acceptable version for most Indonesians“. And so another generation is kept underfoot of those in the corridors of power.

As Ari Sharp pointed out last year, Lubang Buaya is on display, with an ominous red light shining up from deep inside the shaft, and a nationalist statue, Monumen Pancasila Sakti  celebrates the heroism of the slain soldiers in brutalist propagandist style. The gory details of September 30 and the morning that followed are presented in unflinching dioramas, and mannequins are used to depict the torturous barbarism that was supposedly inflicted on some of the generals before their death.

The site is an official Obyek Wisata (tourism site), and no town is complete without a street named after at least one of the six generals: Army Lieutenant General Ahmad Yani, Major General M. T. Haryono and Brigadier General D.I. Panjaitan,  Major General Soeprapto, Major General S. Parman and Brigadier General Sutoyo and First Lieutenant Pierre Tendean.

40 Years of Silence: An Indone­sian Tragedy fol­lows the com­pelling tes­ti­monies of four indi­vid­u­als and their fam­i­lies, as they break the silence with an inti­mate look at what it was like for sur­vivors dur­ing Suharto’s New Order regime. Through their sto­ries, the audi­ence comes to under­stand the poten­tial for ret­ri­bu­tion, reha­bil­i­ta­tion, and rec­on­cil­i­a­tion in modern-day Indone­sia within this trou­bled his­tor­i­cal context.

[If you’re unable to watch 40 Years of Silence online  – because “Sorry, it’s not available in your region (including Indonesia)” – then use a proxy browser and/or feel free to download it from here.]

Last year I interviewed Bedjo Unjtung who was 17 in 1965 and went on the run for five years because his father had been imprisoned and then exiled to Buru Island without trial until his release in 1979. His father was a People School teacher and a member of Persatuan Guru Republik Indonesia (the Indonesian Republic Teachers Union) which was labelled by Suharto’s military as a leftist organization because it had supported the policies of Sukarno, the first president.

However, Bedjo says: “Politically and ideologically I knew nothing. My duty was to just study.” Yet he too was imprisoned and upon release, like thousands of others, was unable to find secure employment because his ID card was marked ‘ET’ which stood for ‘Eks Tapol’, Tapol being an acronym of tahanan politik, the Indonesian words for ‘political prisoner’.

His time is now spent with Yayasan Penelitian Korban Pembunuhan 1965/1966 (Indonesian Institute for the Study of 1965/1966 Massacre) and continues the struggle for the survivors still waiting to receive governmental acknowledgement of the discrimination they have suffered.

*President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (SBY) married Kristiani Herrawati (Ani), the eldest child of Gen.(ret) Wibowo.

Image of the Week – 176 (Not Ladybird Books)

Artist Miriam Elia says she is both sceptical and optimistic. “I really enjoy making something that undermines the philosophy of contemporary art – but what I’m making is contemporary art.”

I’ve written about the Ladybird Books before, here and here: those cheap but well-produced little hardback books  taught a generation to read, a time when video phones and apps were the stuff of a dystopian, almost nightmarish, vision of the future.

Of now.

In her art, the postwar optimism embodied in the perky Peter and Jane learning system clashes delightfully with the wilful nihilism of the modern art scene.

Everything I do is about a violent clash between two things that makes something funny. That clash is the backdrop of my life.”

There are several more images here but some are NSFW.

Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues

Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues
Jeremy Allen
pub. YellowDot 2009
ISBN 978-979-18946-3-0

Living through interesting times and recording them as an observer, albeit with a strong attachment, offers a value not only for future historians, but also for those of us on the periphery.

Canadian Jeremy Allen straddles the worlds of expats and Indonesians alike. He first came to Indonesia as an “innocent” backpacker in 1980 and “became enthralled by Indonesia’s natural wonders, its vibrant culture, and by the way [he] was received with warm hospitality.”

He is an innocent no longer, and nor are any of us in Indonesia who’ve witnessed first hand the natural and manmade disasters, the social unrest, the blatant corruption, and the disregard for legal processes – often by the judiciary and law enforcement agencies. All this, and more, is covered by the local and international mass media, NGOs and personal social media.

‘Jakarta Jive, Bali Blues’ is a reprint of two books. The first, originally published in 2001, has as its core the events which lead to the forced abdication of the “dictator in all but name” Suharto in May ’98.

Other accounts have been published about the Asian Economic Crisis (krismon) which lead to resign, but, as Jeremy points out, “all economic circumstances are relative”. For him, “the quadrupling of the price of imported cheese was a minor inconvenience.” However, “for a middle-class mother, the four-fold in baby formula was a serious concern.” As businesses and banks collapsed, one solution was for selebritis to establish upscale warung makanan which came to be known as kafe tenda (tented café). At one such, Jeremy learnt from a former banker at a Soeharto-owned bank that “he believes that there is nothing wrong with nepotism as long as you keep it in the family“.

Although his income at the time was derived mainly from copy writing, his keen ear and empathy marks Jeremy out as a “proper journalist“. He was curious and concerned as he ventured out on the streets in that tumultuous week, often in the company of Monica, a traumatised Chinese-Indonesian student from Trisakti University, the scene of still unresolved shootings, who hid her tension behind the lens of her camera.

She was to develop into a filmmaker, documenting the aftermath of the mass rapes of Chinese women, and the students’ continued push for reformasi, the “desire to see an end to Soeharto’s rule with no clear concept of how to replace the existing authoritarian government with a more democratic political system“. (Many would say that nearly 20 years later that in spite of direct elections there are still few with a clear concept.)

The students divided into two groupings, militant activists and those demanding a more peaceful route, both facing the “incompetently commanded troops“. And then came Ramadhan, the Islamic fasting month and all sides called a cessation, probably because “the prospect of hours in the tropical afternoon sun without a drop of water would be a rigorous test of both political zeal and military discipline.”

Among the ‘characters’ Jeremy met was Pak Trisno, who became a journalist “fired with humanitarian fervor … documenting the plight of the common people as a half-made, fractious republic lurched from one crisis to another.”

In 1965 he was arrested, accused of subversion, but never tried, and spent the years until 1974 being “shuffled from one prison to another in Jakarta.” Upon release he was helped by friends to establish a used furniture-antiques business in South Jakarta, close to expat enclaves. And they lead Jeremy to an ‘expose’ of the duality in the then expat scene in Jakarta. There were many insensitive DIAs (“dollar income a**holes“) who thought life was “dirt cheap“, and they are contrasted with the majority of Indonesians for whom “life was no party“.

Bali Blues, the second book has as its focus the Bali bombings on October 11th 2002. Jeremy had hoped to be in Bali that day to meet some friends, but fortuitously had a business meeting in Jakarta, while an allergic reaction kept his friends out of both the Sari Club and Paddy’s Bar.

He “hastened there and discovered that [his] friends’ fortuitous escape had not been an isolated occurrence. A few remembered feeling a force at their back, like someone physically pushing them out of harm’s way.”

And so begins a personal account about the balance between the metaphysical and physical planes of existence at the centre of Bali life, and the changes wrought to the land- and mind- scapes with the advent of mass tourism, as well as the seekers of a residential paradise with little understanding of the exotic norms.

Underlying and beyond the urbanisation, the traffic jams, the real estate vendors, new age dreamers, surfers, and the Javanese economic migrants (including “professional prostitutes”), lies a “shadowy parallel world, called Niskala, and the physical world, Sekala. These are kept in balance through the endless cycles of prayer, ritual and public ceremony. The catastrophic Bali Bomb disrupted this harmony, threatening the well-being of Bali, but of the world.”

Much of the book are character studies of Jeremy’s social circle, so it comes as something as a shock to find chronological accounts of the fateful evening with laughing terrorist Amrozi and his cohorts intertwined with those of Jeremy’s Indonesian friends.

The book closes with an epilogue. A week after the executions of the three bombers, Jeremy undertook a cycle ride from Bali back to Jakarta. En route he took a detour past by the burial site of the two brothers, Amrozi bin Nurhasyim and Ali Ghufron. They had been buried in a “plot of carefully cleared land shaded by mango trees, with a chain-link fence enclosing the side-by-side graves.”

The fence had been erected because so many faithful pilgrims made midnight visits and took away the “mystically charged earth.”*
So much of contemporary history is reduced to message bytes and sound bites that having a personal, occasionally anecdotal, yet essentially objective account of seminal events such as this omnibus edition is of immense value.

There is a strong humanity shining through Jeremy Allen’s prose; I recommend it for that and to all those seeking a good armchair read.

Look for it in your local Periplus book store.
*Note: the gravesite of Imam Samudra, the other executed bomber, has also become a place of pilgimage.
First published in the Indonesia Expat magazine 19.9.15

In Training (4)

(This is an update to previous posts: 1, 2, and 3.)

In just four or five years, using the commuter trains to get into, out of and across Jakarta has become immeasurably easier, not that there aren’t little things which can raise stress levels.

Old times ….. … and now…

Much, if not all, of the significant progress can be put down to the no-nonsense ‘reign’ of Ignasius Jonan who spent over five years as the chief executive of Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) before being appointed Transportation Minister in Jokowi’s government in October a year ago.

A maverick, Mr Jonan turned round Indonesia’s long mismanaged national rail company as chief executive. Whether sleeping on trains, spending weekends lecturing station managers or screaming at ungrateful customers, he threw himself wholeheartedly into the job.

The train service currently serves around 270 million passengers a year, 50% more than it did when Mr. Jonan took over Kereta Api six years ago. Freight loads have doubled to nearly 30 million tons per year, he says.

As Minister, his aggressive approach in increasing the current 5,000 kilometres of track, two-thirds in Java and one-third in Sumatra, by another 7,500 kilometres by 2020 across Indonesia’s five major islands – Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Kalimantan and Papua – should pay great dividends in attracting investment in all sectors.

In Jakarta, platforms are being extended so that the current commuter trains will have two carriages added to to current eight, and with extra trains the aim is to double capacity to 1.2 million passengers a day by 2018.

Mr. Jonan is certain it will happen, with or without him at the helm. “The question is, if we achieve 1.2 million passengers a day in terms of capacity will the commuter trains still be crowded? The answer is most probably yes.

So, the big picture is there, but what about the fine details, especially regarding access to the trains?

Better access to the stations.
– Liaise with the police to provide allocated space for ojeks (motorcycle taxis) at e.g. Tebet station.
– Better liaison with TransJakarta Busway management, e.g. at Manggarai and Sudirman stations which are both c.500m from the nearest bus stops.
– Widen, repair, provide lighting and maintain access footpaths to stations. e.g. Cikini and Gondangdia.

Better information provision
– The PT. KAI Commuter Jabodetabek website (and the national website) should also be in English.
– Line routes should be prominently displayed at each station
— The commuter line routes map can be found here, a ‘private’ website.

Provide escalators/travelators at overhead stations
– for the safe movement of passengers, especially the elderly, sick, physically handicapped, pregnant, and those laden with bulky or heavy luggage.

Better queueing flow
– rather than separate lines to each loket (counter), have one queue feeding into them.

To sum up, trains beat traffic jams any day, and along with increasing numbers of Indonesian residents and visitors could – with greater attention to detail – be an even more efficient and pleasurable experience.

Image of the Week – 175 (Home …)

… is where the art is.

I first mentioned the French street artist Oak Oak four years ago tomorrow to illustrate an analysis-rant about the state of Jakarta’s public transport systems. Today’s Image is posted because he has a new book out called Urban Diversion.

I’d love to have a copy, but better yet would be if O-O can inspire a Jakarta artist to make us smile as we attempt to navigate our way on foot through Jakarta’s highly dangerous streets.

(There are loads more photos of O-O’s art here.)

Image Of the Week – 174 (Human Endurance)

The blind hiker who takes on the wilderness.

The dominant news for the past few weeks has been the plight of refugees fleeing Syria, Iraq and other war zones in the Middle East. The one characteristic they all display is indomitability, the resolve to find a refuge in which to rebuild their shattered lives.

People do not leave their homes lightly. They flee, and sometimes take dreadful risks at the hands of people smugglers, because the alternatives are so much worse.”

That their journeys have been full of risks, subject to intimidation and insensitivity from border guards and others, and unsafe sea crossings has been well-documented. So too has been the incredible generosity, both spiritually and materially, from the citizens of the towns they have passed through.

Yesterday’s news of chemical attacks from ISIS in Syria and Iraq merely adds to the notion that humanity is at a crossroads.

This week has also seen commemorative services held for the victims of 9/11. On fourteen years ago yesterday, stories of dedication and extreme bravery unfolded.

It would be easy to lose sight of those individual tales, which is why I have chosen the story of Trevor Thomas. One man’s determination in overcoming incredible odds serves as an example to us all, whatever our circumstances.

Now 46, he went blind ten years ago. Thomas became depressed and very angry about the loss of his sight, his former life and, as he saw it then, his independence. A friend suggested hiking might help him out of the rut in which he found himself.

Since then he has completed the Appalachian Trail which stretches some 2,180 miles (3508 km) through the Appalachian mountains on the eastern edge of North America.  He has done much more since then.

When I reach the end of a trail I remember how it feels. I feel the stones under my feet. I remember the smells, the sounds and the effort I made to get there – those are the things that remain with me, they’ll just remember the view.”

Listen to his full story here.

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